​Mackie Makinano and his team are definitely pushing the boundaries of Philippine climbing with their recent feat of bolting and free climbing one of Quezon, Bukidnon's biggest walls.
 
"Unang bolt pa lang, tuwang-tuwa na ako," 
"Even with just the first bolt in, I was already happy"

​The dream was created way back in 1999, when Kuya Mackie first laid eyes on Kiokong's Great White Wall. With its entire height exposed to you straight off from the highway, no climber, least of all Kuya Mackie, wouldn't want to explore the intricacies of this beast.

While a handful of routes were initially bolted 21 years ago, it was only in 2017, through the efforts of the local mountaineering community in partnership with the Bukidnon Local Government, did climbing development in Kiokong formally, and officially, begin.

​The excitement and determination swelled so much not just inside of Kuya Mackie, but within the whole Philippine climbing community, that in just a little over two years, the QZN Bolting Team was able to raise enough funds to setup over 200 routes in the municipality.
 
Fresh from celebrating the arrival of a new decade, Mackie and his bolting team set out on January 6, 2020 to Quezon, Bukidnon with establishing Kiokong's Great White Wall as their objective.

The west faced cliff proved to be a challenge to bolt. The team would have to start their day early; any later than noon and the sun would be well over them.

On the average, a day’s work would contribute a single pitch—cleaned and bolted. Kuya Mack recalls having to abseil at 4:30 PM one day just to finish a pitch where its anchors would be useful for the next day.

He doesn't fail to mention the scorching heat both from the sun and the rock. The thirst and fatigue was one of a kind, he said, that even a sized-up pair of Testarossas didn’t stop his feet from hurting.

But through team effort, the last bolt was placed, and the anchors were set. Just another day for the team making Philippine climbing history.

The wall is described as slightly overhanging; there is at least a daunting 100 meters of white limestone looking down on you right before you begin your climb. Falling would have you hanging in the air, meters away from the wall. The route, varied with its different features and formations, tests all of a climbers' repertoire of beta.

​But the true crux of the route lies on preparing as best as you can and staying alert through the entire climb: considering the state of yourself, your partner and your surroundings.

Aside from the skills required to set up your own anchors, climb/belay, and abseil, rockfall is inevitable, especially for this freshly-bolted line.

​Slow progress through technical terrain is not a bad thing, but an immediate consequence would be the scorching heat of the sun. Nonetheless, as with the sport in general, the balance of safety and risk is what gives it its sense of adventure.

We asked Kuya Mackie to share their experience of making the first ascent of such an iconic route, but in response, he simply suggests for all those curious to reach out to the rest of the team: Arjun Actub, Lorenz Pring, Mikhail Gorra, Monyen Rivera, and Repa Pips.

​Reach out to the team, he says, they have their own thrill and excitement to share.

At his current state, with all the bolting work done and dusted, the hype of the first ascent simmers in contrast to making irrefutable progress on his dream of making Quezon, Bukidnon the rock climbing capital of the Philippines.

​From hurdling initial access issues and raising enough funds, down to putting together a team to see the project through, Kuya Mackie was able to establish the longest and tallest multi-pitch line in the country.

​We share in Kuya Mackie’s gratitude towards the incredible support he received from Pinoy climbers all over. Notwithstanding our appreciation for his hard work, in particular, we’re grateful for the stoke that this growing community provides through its spirit of “bayanihan”.

​So many individuals pitched in to make the project a success, and we witnessed it from both newbies and oldies, gym rats and seasoned rock climbers, through help donated in various forms: time, money, and whatever personal skills or resources each one had.

​It couldn't be helped, but a climber thrives in looking for more challenges, and in learning as much from what the rock has to offer.

Kuya Mackie is confident that the momentum doesn’t end at this milestone. The first route of the multi-pitch, which is also the line’s most difficult pitch at 6c, leads to many more possibilities.

​He mentions of more complex features on all directions away from this first pitch (complex could possibly mean harder) that we may still believe a lot has to happen for us to try, and for now as climbers, we can only dream.

​Thankfully for Kuya Mackie, dreaming won't have to take another decade. There's the first route already – this striking line literally set in stone – a second one is far from impossible.

​The Philippine Bolting team would once again like to thank all those who've supported them:
 
#8aPerformance
#Boon
#SeaToSummitPH
#OspreyPH
#BlackDiamondPH
#LGUQuezonBukidnon
#GripUP
#ConanCruz

​Are you looking for a new pastime? An escape from the daily grind? Perhaps a break from your usual fitness activity?

Or maybe you’re just bored and want to try something you’ve never done before?
 
Whatever it is that led you to these pages, we're glad you found your way here. This post hopes to broadcast the less-highlighted but equally-important truths about the sport of climbing. (And yes, climbing is a legitimate sport, World Cups and our own Philippine Team and all!)
 
Just to be clear, this is not a guide to fulfilling your elite climber ambition, though tips will surely be scattered here and there. This is more about sharing the less-hyped parts of being a climber, to give you a well-rounded perspective of why more and more people are drawn to it, and why it’s far more than an activity to tick off your bucket list. 
 
Whether you've only tried "wall-climbing" in a school fair or some expo, or even if you’ve already visited a climbing gym a couple of times, our goal is to cast out any doubts you have about dipping your finger into the sport. Because the last thing we want are for newbie climbers to have crushed expectations after seeing the reality. 

Are you ready? Let’s dive in!

One of the biggest misconceptions about climbing is that people think steel arms and a lean body are pre-requisites for starting. I’ve heard people say that they’ll lose weight first before trying, or that they’re hesitant because they “can’t even do a pull-up”. 
 
These worries are completely unfounded because climbing is a full-body workout. This is especially true when you're just starting out. Climbing is a lot like going up a step-ladder: It’s mainly your legs working to push you up from one rung to the next, while your hands and arms assist by pulling your body in (closer to the ladder) so that you don’t lose your balance, or fall backwards as you move up. 
 
Your arms, therefore, work in coordination with your legs and the rest of your body (back, core, etc.) as you climb. This clearly shows how your success in climbing isn't fully dependent on upper body strength alone.

And since your hands will be gripping the climbing holds (these are what the “rocks” and brightly-colored shapes on the wall are called) the whole time, you can expect the skin on your palms and fingers to get thicker and tougher as you hang on them more and more often. (Don't fret, though -- calluses should be your ally, not your enemy, as this article points out).

So what kind of tiredness can you expect? To put it simply, you’ll feel a weaker hand grip. I remember repetitively dropping a bar soap when I took a bath after my first few climbing sessions. Some couldn’t turn a door knob, hold a water bottle, or grip the wheel of the car. 
 
The good thing is it’s nothing permanent. There will simply be a distinct tiredness in your forearms that may last for few days, depending on how fatigued your muscles are. But this won't be happening to you forever. As you log in more climbing time, your hands and forearms will get used to carrying your body weight regularly, until eventually, it'll take a lot more than an hour of climbing to wear it out that way again. 

What about the scratches and bruises? Don’t worry, that only happens to the clumsiest of us. Kidding aside, it also happens that you can be so focused on climbing that you don’t notice how your elbow occasionally grazes the wall, or your hip or knee bumps a climbing hold. It can’t be anything major, and you can even be proud of yourself for earning battle scars so early on. 

It takes a while for me to break into a sweat. But when I first learned to climb up and down the wall, I was surprised to find my clothes ready for wringing.
 
Maybe it was the sauna-like atmosphere in the gym, I can’t recall anymore. The point is, even if you’re climbing in an air-conditioned facility, climbing can make you sweat. A lot. It may not look like your typical cardiovascular workout, but carrying your body weight even on the most basic wall can elevate one’s heart rates and burn calories. Add to that the fear component of climbing, and one easily gets sweaty palms, underarms and groins. 
 
Then there’s the chalk. Climbers use chalk similar to what gymnasts use, to minimize the sweat on their palms which affect their ability to grip holds. Chalk is kept in a “chalk bag” (one of the personal gear you will own as a climber). But because they are loose like powder, and the ratio of chalk bag to climber is 1:1, there is chalk dust inevitably floating around the gym all the time.
 
Combine this floating chalk with your sweat-drenched hair, nape, neck, and every other skinfold on your body, and you can really manage to dirty yourself up without effort.

​Then there are the climbing gyms which are not created equal. Some have better ventilation than others. Some are kept more clean and tidied-up than others. So if you are easily affected by heat, are asthmatic, or are allergic to dust, it would be wise to consider your choice of climbing facility. 
 
Consider also the time of your climbing session. Mornings will always be the coolest time of the day. Noon is always the worst time to climb. Even if you’re climbing somewhere with air-con, the oven-warmth of our tropical climate can blanket you as you reach the top of the wall (closest to the ceiling). The heat gradually lessens in the afternoon. By the evening, the climbing temperature can become ideal again.

​A typical scene in a climbing gym: There are groups of people clustered together, watching other climbers scale the wall. There will be frequent bursts of loud cheer as climbers push each other on. Either that, or booming laughter and never-ending taunting.
 
There are kids half your size hiking up the wall with unrelenting energy. There are adults that look twice your age, cruising up a boulder, or falling (what looks) haphazardly, but not flinching from the air time at all. People crank pull-ups between casual chats and finger taps on the cellphone. Everyone’s backs, shoulders and biceps look magazine-worthy. 
 
The different characters in the gym may catch your attention as you wait for your climb. But as soon as you’re attached to the rope and signaled to start your ascent, the distractions that pre-occupied you a few seconds ago will start to fade away. The only thought you’ll be left with is: How the heck do I get myself up this wall??
 
Humans have an inherent fear of falling. It’s part of our instinct of self-preservation and avoidance of pain. Once your body gets off the ground, and the more height you gain, your mind will begin to zero in on the task of keeping you on the wall, its way of trying to “keep you alive”.

​And in this day when we are constantly sidetracked by a notification (Hey, that's cool! Like / Double Tap / Share), or some errand that slipped our mind but can't not attend to (Time to panic!!!), climbing is a good teacher of how to turn off distractions, deal with our inner demons, do problem-solving, and stay in the present moment. 

Apart from teaching one to focus on the climbing task at hand, the sport emphasizes how focusing on your own performance outweighs obsessing about how other climbers are leaner / taller / stronger / better than you.
 
Climbing shows you clearly how each body is unique, and has its own set of strengths that can be used to each one's own advantage.

​Observe this in your first session: You and your climbing partner will never use the exact same method to get up the wall. It doesn’t mean one person’s way of doing it is wrong and the other one’s right. It just demonstrates how each person’s body and way of "solving the problem" is different. The challenge for you is to figure out how to use your own body optimally to complete a climb.
 
To back this up a bit more, you should know that in the climbing world, there’s an international system for determining just how hard a climb is. For instance, I’m a Filipino climber and I’m on some mountain in France. Using the grading system, I'll be able to determine if a climbing route is above, below, or just within my level. (A climbing route is a set sequence or path up the wall or rock). Having this standard grading system emphasizes how a climber must focus on benchmarking his or her performance on the grading scale, rather than targeting to outperform another climber.

​At first, you can’t imagine yourself getting to the top of the wall. But through practice, determination and encouragement, you’ll eventually get there.
 
You’ll be scared out of your wits to let go of the rope. What if the rope breaks? The gear fails? My belay partner makes a mistake?? But after a few minutes, you'll be back on the ground, the moment of fear will have passed, and you'll be ready to go back up again.
 
You’ll be climbing a route three times, five times, ten times, never managing to complete it; your arms or your brain always fails you halfway through. But then you try it again, and on your 11th try, it finally sends ("send": climbing jargon for completing a climb).
 
There will be many surprising victories in your climbing journey, big and small. Many of them will not be seen by other people. But you will know it personally if you’ve conquered or surpassed something you’ve never done before, and that will make all the difference to you.
 
It can be as hidden as finally being able to climb without a tingle of fear in your body. Or it can be obvious, like doing your first pull-up, or learning to do a drop-knee (a technique where a climber rotates the hips in order to point their knee in and downward. This EpicTV video explains this super-important technique well).

Whatever it is, there will surely be many moments in climbing when you will prove yourself wrong, and just pleasantly surprise yourself about being able to do something more comfortably, confidently, and successfully.
 
Surprises can go the other way, too. 
 
You may discover certain traits about yourself, like how you react to pressure and disappointment. Do you get agitated and anxious when you can’t finish a problem that everyone else can easily do? Or do you get more motivated to strive harder?
 
I remember one of my first visits to a climbing gym that opened my eyes to how I reacted to failure. I climbed an easy wall slowly and reached the top. I felt good. I climbed a second wall and surprisingly, managed to finish it, too. Naturally, I felt strong and optimistic. I climbed a third wall, reached the overhanging section, then flooded with panic at why my grip was loosening uncontrollably, until I just peeled off without a fight. I cried and didn’t want to try the same wall again.
 
I wasn’t used to failing, and having a failed climb witnessed by the “public” was one of the worst feelings for me at that time. I was shocked (and embarrassed with) my own self about how automatically the tears came, and how quickly I was discouraged. Thankfully, climbing has allowed me to experience hundreds of these “morale-crushers” and taught me to toughen up and fix my attitude. 
 
I also learned that I mustn’t label these incidents as morale-crushers. These “bad surprises” of falling off routes served as eye-openers to what I still lacked and needed to improve on. I learned to accept that failing is part of the climbing life. And the more times I fell, the deeper each lesson was hammered into my brain.

You already know that climbing is a sport that activates your whole body. It promotes strength, flexibility, coordination and optimally engages the muscles from head to toe. But what will make you keep coming back for it?
 
In case it hasn’t been mentioned enough, it’s because there’s a mental side to climbing.

It’s not just about pushing your body to its physical limits. Successfully climbing up the wall requires the same approach as solving a puzzle: Planning your moves, refining your techniques, trial and error, adjusting methods and tactics, and last but not least, harnessing your sheer focus and determination to put everything together.

All this effort is part and parcel of getting to the top of a route. And these same things make for a far more interesting workout than counting laps, sets and minutes, doing the same movements over and over again. 
 
Then there’s the social aspect of climbing. Have we mentioned that you can expect to find all body shapes, types, heights, ages, gender, and all sorts of profiles in the climbing community? Because you don’t need to be the “athletic type” to get into the sport, you’ll soon discover that there are lots of people – and different types of interesting people – to meet and join you in your climbing journey. 

​The climbing community fosters a friendly environment. Most climbers and gym instructors will be happy to share advice because everyone knows how bad it feels to be helpless on a climb. Everyone was a beginner once. So even if you don’t know the person who’s climbing, it’s in the climbers’ nature to cheer other climbers on. 

Put these all together and it’s fairly easy to forget that you initially went to the gym to just workout. 
 
You’ll find yourself challenged by a route or a boulder problem, and will look for ways to make it happen for you. You’ll meet new people. You'll setup climbing dates with the friends you’ve made. Or you can start inviting your own friends or make it a family activity. You’ll be logging in more hours in the gym because you'll each have your own boulder problem that you want to finish. Or, if you prefer, you can also work on routes by yourself -- with your headphones, at your own time -- because climbing training can be done alone, anyway.

Sure, you’ll still feel the sweat and grime (all the time). But because you'll be consumed by almost getting to that last hold and giving it one last try for the 100th time, before you know it, your overall physique would have balanced out (you would've lost weight if you were bulky, or gained muscle if you were normally just skin and bones) and improved your general fitness.
 
But the bigger gain, I think, is how the sport gets the mind into great shape.

While climbing's most obvious lesson is facing our fear of heights, the truth is, climbing feeds our brain with a handful of valuable life skills, such as discipline, focus, patience, determination, and acceptance, among many others. 

​In my experience, it taught me to be more aware of what's possible or not; of my own potential as a person. It gave me confidence even outside the walls of the gym. It gave me courage to test my limits, and to occasionally jump into “what if’s”; things that were unthinkable for my naturally timid, safe personality.

But please, don't just take it from me. Though my 15+ years of climbing has seen far too many sound minds and bodies with crazy-fulfilled grins to count, you'll really only need a few climbing sessions to understand what I'm talking about.

This completes our list of five things to expect when getting into the sport of climbing. We hope you found the anecdotes and tips insightful. If you find them bitin, you can also check out the key resources and other related links below. 

We'd also love to hear your own stories. Do you have similar experiences when you first started climbing? Do you wish there were other things on this list that we missed out? Feel free to comment so we can plan for an updated post in the future.

Thanks for dropping by. Here's to getting ready for the climb, the grime, and all the fun that goes with it. Keep calm and climb on!

Resources:

• 99Boulders: Climber’s Hands: How to Take Care of Calluses & Prevent Flappers. https://www.99boulders.com/how-to-take-care-of-calluses
• Time.com: Why Rock Climbing May Be the Ultimate Full-Body Workout.
  http://time.com/5158732/rock-climbing-workout/
• Book: Dave Macleod, 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes (2010)
• ​EpicTV Video: Rock Climbing Technique for Intermediates: The Back Step / Drop Knee). https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/rock-climbing-technique-for-intermediates--the-back-step--drop-knee/605623
• Book: Arno Ilgner, The Rock Warrior’s Way: Mental Training for Climbers (2003)
• EpicTV Climbing Daily: So...What Do Climbing Grades Even Mean? Ep.889. 
  https://youtu.be/3UqNXuf8L8s​
• The Guardian: Climbing has gone from niche sport to worldwide sensation. What is its dizzying appeal? 
  https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/aug/12/climbing-has-gone-from-niche-sport-to-worldwide-sensation-what-is-its-dizzying-appeal?CMP=share_btn_fb

Photo credits: Raschid Salting, Jeric Rustia and Noel Cabauatan.

​We welcome any sort of feedback to the mini-guide that we made. Please give us a shout out at climbphilippines@gmail.com for that, or leave a comment below. Climb on!

​Just follow the cement road, past Iglesia ni Cristo church, until it changes into a worn and obvious trail. Go past houses and a handful of sari-sari stores. The trail will become single file before you hit a steep, soil staircase. Just keep hiking up, past a cluster of beverage stalls, until the trail becomes rocky. Shortly after walking amidst limestones, you’ll come across the single-standing hut of Tatay Rody on your right. That means it’s time to cut left, through some banana trees and crops, to the approach of Monkey Wall.

It’s a good 30-45 minute hike from Aling Norma’s, depending on your cardio level. A decent “warm-up”, not so different from your favorite trek up to Uling.

Route List

A. 3 Monkeys and the Sun (Project)
12m / 9 bolts / Anchors: 1 locking biner and backup
Starts at the left part of the white slab, up to a compression boulder sequence.
 
B. Handlanger (Project)
15m / 11 bolts / Anchors: Hangers only
Potentially the hardest line as of yet, possibly with a dyno. Use long draw on the 5th.
 
C. I Got You Babe* (6c)
22m / 15 bolts / Anchors: Hangers only / 1996 FA Jong Narciso 
Made for those with a good set of pinchers. Follow the flowstone unto a mini-rest before more tufa climbing. Original route ended at bolt #9, afterwards is the extended version. Must try.
 
D. The Gift* (7a)
13m / 8 bolts / Anchors: Hangers only / 1998 FA Kim Imao
A high first bolt at the ledge, then follow through on a single diagonal crack. Short and sweet!
 
E. Seven Nation Army (6a)
20m / 13 bolts / Anchors: Rings / 2018 FA Mio Gomez
Begin inside the big crack into a small overhang, and up the white stripe. Nice variety of movements, highly recommended. Use long draws on the 3rd and 7th bolts to avoid drag.
 
F. Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door* (5b)
18m / 10 bolts / Anchors: Hangers only / 1996 FA Choy Aquino, Jong Narciso
Literally, “root climbing” (unless you want it to become a 7b). All slab climbing after the ledge.
 
G. Sunshine** (5.9/5b)
60ft / 1997 FA Erwin Gozum
 
H. Headache** (5.6)
50ft / 1997FA Agmata, Castor
 
I. Set-up for the Gift** (5.7)
55ft / 1997 FA Jong Narciso
 
J. Skinless** (5.10/6a)
45ft / FA Kim Imao, Levi Nahayangan, Ferdie Bulan
 
 
What do the asterisks (*) mean?
All those with asterisk (single or double) were listed in the original guidebook, Rockclimbing in Montalban (2000). This means they were bolted 18 years ago at the minimum. Double asterisk means the information was lifted directly from the guidebook (just to give you an idea of what had existed before). These ** routes have not yet been checked / climbed during the recent visits in 2017- 2018. As a safety precaution, we do not recommend that you hop on these routes just yet.
​

Tips & Reminders
​

• ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, whether you’re belaying, climbing, or just chilling. The crag hasn’t been climbed in a long time, and the new routes may still have loose rock.
• This crag is good for a morning session, the sun can fry you by noontime.
• Wear approach shoes for the hike.
• Manage the group size when you visit. It's really only six routes for now (4 clean + 2 projects), plus there are crops around the crag. Let's minimize impact and practice LNT.
• Be proactive in checking the condition of the bolts and hangers of the old routes. Don’t risk it if you think a bolt isn’t in the best condition.
• Follow the usual SOPs: Register at Aling Norma’s Eatery before your climb, and pay the group climbing fee at the Barangay Hall.
• For all sorts of suggestion and feedback, please contact us at climbphilippines@gmail.com​

Photo credits: Noel Cabauatan & Sarah Aquino

BAGUIO
Kalay-At Adventures
Casa Vallejo, Upper Session Road, Baguio City
Facebook: Kalay-At Adventures 
- Top-rope

DAVAO
D' Leonor Rock Climbing
D' Leonor Inland Resort & Adventure Park, Purok 5, Brgy. Communal, Buhangin, Davao City 8000
(+63 922) 829-3370 / (+63 915) 328-6857

Wolfpack Boulder Gym
Grande Residence, Pabalan Village Rd., Digos City 8000
Facebook: WolfPackBoulder
Contact Person: Darwin Regner (Leave a message on their Facebook page in advance if interested to visit)
- Bouldering

No granite or sandstone here.

Climbing in the Philippines will force you to love limestone. Our crags offer a range of types—some young and soft, others old and bullet-hard; some sharp and skin-biting, others smooth and slimy.

To sample the variety, Dingle’s Nautod Wall (Iloilo) has inconspicuous angles that result in unidentifiable shadows, making it easy for the newcomer’s eye to pass off slopers for jugs. Cantabaco (Cebu) is fun for on-sighting with smooth pockets and large cracks pasted over a clean, “highway”-like surface.

Both sets of limestone features can be found in Montalban (Antipolo), apart from the common stalactites, tufas and flowstones that require good pinchers, sticky shoes, and relaxed, lay-backing technique.

These rock faces are set in different scenes. Palawan has 200-foot cliffs at the edge of white sand beaches; Atimonan’s views are that of luscious mountain ranges; while the boulders of Daraitan and Lamtang run alongside streams and rivers.

In all climbing areas, being located in small, less-urbanized (or completely rural) towns, the feel is laid-back; travelling from point A to B an escapade; food and lodging is cheap; beer is good; and the people, though shy, are friendly and accommodating. And the local climbers are sure to show you a memorable time!

The short of it is that we have a dry season (tag-init), and a wet season (tag-ulan). Some people would say we have hot season, and a hotter season. But for a bit more accuracy, or if you're looking for the best schedule for your climbing trip, you can use the below categories as a guide.
​

When travelling across island groups and provinces, you can either take a plane, boat or bus.

Flying is the most straightforward method – both in booking tickets and the actual travel. Local airlines’ budget rates can also get incredibly cheap if you book early enough or catch a promo.

• Philippine Airlines – The country’s flagship airline.
• PAL Express – The low-cost carrier counterpart of Philippine Airlines.
• Cebu Pacific Air – Budget airline that services local and international flights. A bit notorious for flight delays and overbooking. But still the most popular airline for great deals throughout the year.
• Air Asia Zest – Local partner Malaysia's low-cost carrier, Air Asia.

With today's budget fares, boat tickets are only a little less expensive than airfares. However, taking a boat is still recommended if you have time to spare. Braving the ports, watching the sea and the sky, and chatting with unique characters is an experience encountered by a few.

• Superferry – Online booking available.
• Negros Navigation

​The last option is through the Strong Republic Nautical Highway (SRNH). This works by land vehicles that “roll-on and roll-off” (RORO) a barge to cross bodies of water. You can do this through the comfort of your own car, or take a bus that travels through the SNRH.

However, there is no agency that issues RORO bus tickets across all destinations. You will need to contact the exact bus company that caters to your desired travel points. If you are able to do so, a unique journey is in store for you.

For short to medium distances, public transportation include buses, mini-buses (or “FX” to locals), or your standard taxi cabs. But a visit to the Philippines won't be complete without riding our decorated jeepneys, motorized tricycles (pronounced "tri-see-kels"), and the local pedicabs known as trisikads (pronounced "tri-see-cads"). There's something that we call a multi-cab which Wikipedia defines as a light truck, but has seating like a jeepney, and can have 3 wheels or 4 wheels (depending on which region you're in). The best experience of all, especially when traversing mountain ranges, is the habal-habal; but we have to say, ride at your own risk!

​Have you decided to book your flight to the Philippines yet? :)

If you're up for this kind of adventure, we've come up with a few itinerary suggestions in light of the most common inquiries that we get on the website...Just scroll through to see which kind of traveler you are!

OPTION 1: I'm 100% in charge of my trip! I can go anywhere, at my own pace!

Ah, the dream trip! (You can read about our own dream of making the Philippines a climbing destination in the future.) Kidding aside, we suggest going for 2-3 crags in different parts of the country, and staying there for 3-5 days each. Block off 2-3 days in between for travel and sightseeing / visiting one of our pristine white sand beaches. Example itinerary:

OPTON 2: I'm going to the Philippines (as a balikbayan / for a business trip / family reunion) for a few weeks. I  can spare a few days for climbing.
​
Consider your climbing style, level and appetite for adventure. Do you want to go to a crag with harder climbs to project, or an area with more moderate routes to log-in more mileage? Do you want to camp and maximize time with nature, or do you prefer a proper bed, toilet and shower for your night's rest? Consider these things and we'll recommend a crag for you.

A word of advise, though: There are still no established gear rental systems in any of the crags. So what we normally do is connect you with the local climbing community in the area, and they can be the one to assist you with local logistics and gear in case you are missing anything.

OPTION 3: I'll be in town for a meeting, and can maybe do a day trip.

If you only have time for a day trip, we can only recommend three places:

• Cantabaco / Poog crag - accessible from Cebu City
• Dingle crag - accessible from Iloilo City
• Wawa crag - accessible from Quezon City, Metro Manila​

Do you have more questions? Don't hesitate to drop us a message!

​Happy planning! 

​Kuya Mackie

Known ubiquitously as Kuya Mackie throughout the Philippine climbing community, Carlos Makinano Jr. has his bolting routine down pat. He is, after all, responsible for developing nearly every major rock climbing area in the country since the year 2000.

As soon as we hit the tarmac in Davao International Airport, Kuya Mackie is on his phone coordinating with Davao-based rock climbing advocate and bolting apprentice, Chico Pace, regarding the rental of an FX-type taxi, which would shave hours off our journey to the Municipality of Quezon in Bukidnon.
​

​Even if he hadn’t slept the night before to make our 4:35am flight, and even if more than half of the day would be gone by the time we arrived at the crag, Kuya Mackie wants to ensure that we can at least test and ‘hammer’ the last route he bolted two weeks prior. He owes it to the project’s sponsors and supporters to squeeze every ounce of daylight out of this second instalment in potentially decades-worth of development in Quezon.

All told, Makinano estimates a potential for over 400 sport climbing routes in Quezon, which is to say nothing of its surrounding towns with similar topographies. The highlight of the area is a massive 180 meter sheer vertical rock face called the Kiokong White Wall located in center of an established ecotourism park. Nearing the height of the RCBC Plaza Yuchengco Tower in Makati, the limestone behemoth is more than twice the stature of the highest established rock climb in the country located in Cantabaco, Cebu.
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Kuya Mackie is aware of this project’s potential to bolster tourism in the landlocked Mindanaoan province. Once developed, the Quezon area could put Philippine climbing on the international map alongside the climbing Mecca of Krabi in Thailand and the picturesque Moonhill in Yangshuo, China. 
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Meow Pao

On this bolting trip – the second for this year –  we focus on the Meow Pao crag in San Jose, so dubbed after an inside joke involving cats and the meat-filled Chinese steamed buns known as ‘Siopao’.

Visible from the Davao-Bukidnon Highway, Meow Pao is the first in a cluster of 60+ meter limestone crags (about the height of the Quezon Memorial Shrine in QC Circle) jutting out from behind the plots of a sugar cane plantation. With the average rock climbing rope being only 60 meters long, crags of this magnitude are usually climbed one section at a time in what’s called a ‘multi-pitch’ climb. Each section, or ‘pitch,’ is just long enough to ensure that the climber can be lowered back to his starting point.

As if designed to spec, a natural ledge  about 10 meters off the ground divides the Meow Pao crag into two vertical sections and spans about two thirds of its width, making it an ideal belay station for a two-pitch sport climb.
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The beauty of this ledge is that climbers can easily traverse across it to get to the particular second pitch route that they want to climb. Climbing partners of different levels don’t have to commit to a single path to reach the top.

​Over on the left side of Meow Pao towers a yet-inaccessible crispy white dihedral (two climbing surfaces that meet at a corner) followed by a three to four meter roof section that will force climbers to climb horizontally, upside-down like lizards clinging to a living room ceiling. Four or more mini stalactites align like inverted road cones and lead to the lip of the cantilever where columns of wild purple orchids grow.
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Nuts and Bolts

Climbing is free. Bolting is not.

When you arrive at the jump off of any rock climbing approach in the Philippines, you may be charged P5 for the right to pass through private land, perhaps P10 to cross a wooden bridge, or at most, around P300 per group for a ‘guided tour’ through the mountain trail, as mandated by the local government. None of this goes to the people who plan, plot, and bolt the routes that you actually climb, or even to fund the bolting of future sport climbing areas.

Bolting in the Philippines is a labor of love. Those who want to develop new areas must shell out their own cash or collect donations from friends and interested parties (often both) to pay for the literal nuts and bolts that keep us safe on the rock. At times, the local government gets involved enough to put their area on the map for rock climbers, but the releasing of funds is arduous at best.

The cost of an average route in materials alone is about P3,000 to P5,000 depending on how many bolts are used, what kind, and where they are sourced from.

​Multiply that by the potential 400 routes in Bukidnon to get an idea of the financial scope and challenge ahead. Even this figure includes neither the hundreds of labor hours that go into each excursion, nor the depreciation of climbing gear and tools required for the job, including the crucial 600 US-dollar impact drill, which will surely break down before the area is half developed.

Yet pioneers like Kuya Mackie are able to find a way to keep the ball rolling, one bolting trip at a time. By trip’s end, he has already lined up a list of private individuals and small local businesses to fund the next excursion.

Luckily, two years ago, I chanced upon a project that would change that outlook. Something that took away the focus on the results and shifted it to the adventure, experience, and effort. After an emotional two weeks in that trip, I felt fortified in the direction of my climbing.  
 
It was in January when a friend and mentor, Marvin John 'Gax' Ilanan passed away. A day before he passed we had been firming up plans about finally bolting the Boogie Wall at Montalban. All the routes in that area were originally climbed “traditional” climbing style, hence, no bolts.  

​I remember climbing in this area of Montalban once, when I was only a few years into climbing, and it didn’t leave much of an impression then. It’s actually a 50-60 meter slab whose gray, limestone face is just as prominent as the more famous walls such as Uling (to its left) and Slayer and El Kanto (to its right). He had been saying it will be a good area for beginners due to the exposure and style of climbing. So with the help of my friend Alex, we bolted 3 routes a few days after his wake. 

We retained the names of the original trad routes. ‘Boogie’ (aka Toe Killer) is the center line of the crag with a difficulty of 5.7 YDS at 35 meters with 15 draws. ‘Mahiwagang Bato’ is the right-most line with a difficulty of 5.9 YDS at 20 meters with 10 draws. We bolted this one ground-up, which was an inspiring experience because of the “fear factor” while bolting, the kind that I enjoyed and built up confidence for future projects. 

​The third route was the new one, not identified in the old Montalban guide book (but who knows if it was ever climbed trad or not?), that dealt with a roof and a tricky corner. We called it ‘Another One Bites The Dust’ with a difficulty of 5.12 YDS with 12 bolts.

I had somehow filled my mind with this idea that Montalban was over-developed already and it didn’t have anything new to offer. Is the glass half-empty or half-full? 

We reveled in the whole process of reverse engineering the existing trad routes. They were amazing lines that beckoned a climber of any level, enjoyable for its consistency, and the rewarding scenery at the top. It can still be climbed on trad if you want to learn or practice the craft. 

To cap it off, seeing the joy and “stoke” of kids testing the route put an exclamation point to the experience. Gax was right! We must carry on what we started, and what he himself has dedicated a large part of his life to -- Sharing, Progressing, Opening, Teaching (SPOT), finding new areas, expanding comfort zones.
 
We will come out with an updated digital route map of the areas soon for Uling, Slayer and Boogie Wall. You can also check thecrag.com for routes around the Philippines. To more SPOT adventures in 2016!

Photo Credit: Noel Cabauatan

By Ina
Read Part 1 here!

There’s more to bolting than drilling holes and installing hangers. Sure, we bolt primarily to let climbers climb crazy cliffs in a safe way, but there are other things to ready apart from the hardware.

Don’t get us wrong. The safety aspect of bolting must never be emphasized enough. In fact, references on bolting will always say: Make sure you have all the right equipment, and make sure you KNOW how to use them. 

It’s important to have the correct type of bolt, because some rock are softer than others (depending on type, age, etc.). Factor in the crag’s location – many have witnessed intense metal corrosion on seaside crags. 

But the safety of a sport climb is not just based on the kind of metal. A big factor is also where each protection is placed. That’s the part that’s harder to master, simply because one can only get better at it through (years of) experience. 

The nice part is, we can all learn from the experiences of others. So we’ve put together some pointers from our long-time bolting friends, and came up with this checklist of what a responsible bolter would do before even drilling a hole:

1. If you’re a beginner, bolt from top to bottom, hanging from a solid anchor. It’s much easier to drill going down, as you can use the previous bolt to keep the rope in line. Stick to a vertical wall so that it’s easy to stay close to the rock.
2. Visualize your potential route in relation to the whole cliff, as well as other routes beside it. Does the line make sense? Is it a squeeze job between two routes that are already good? Is the line safe from rock fall or any debris on top? Will it endanger anyone at the base?
3. Examine the rock for holds that would allow a natural flow of movement. Versus forcing certain moves or positions (only to find out later that there are holds that you over-estimated, under-estimated, or maybe missed altogether). Don’t rush this part, because not all holds are instantly discernible. Train your eye to spot possible holds, even under soil and moss.
4. After mentally drawing the line, clean all the holds and try to climb the route. At the very least, try the moves. Make an X-mark with chalk wherever you would like to place a bolt. 
5. In deciding where to place your X marks, ask yourself these questions: Do I really need to place a bolt there?  What if I move it a bit to the left, or to the right? Is it on a good clipping position?Are my bolts evenly placed? How “risky” are the moves from the last bolt? Can a thread be used instead of a hanger? Can a short person clip safely from there?  A tall person?  Is the fall potential safe? How will the rope run under tension? Will this bolt be exposed to the rain? Or are there seasonal drips from tufas/trees above?
6. Very important: Test all the rock where you plan to put a bolt, by tapping and cleaning around each point with a hammer – you’ll hear the difference between solid and hollow rock very easily.
7. Try the moves again, pretending you are gliding the bolts, and change the chalk marks accordingly if any seem difficult to clip. 
   

Only after going through these steps, can one take the drill out and install a bolt.

By now you might be thinking: What the f*ck?! Too many to remember! Thanks, but no thanks – I’d rather not eat up my already-limited bolting time!

Well, we understand the reaction – the checklist is not for someone who’s in a hurry…and definitely not for the lazy. But if there’s another thing we learned, it’s how lucky we are as Filipinos to still have this huge access to virgin rock. Caroline told us of how in Europe and the US, there is currently an over-supply of bolters, which is why there are people who roam around the world to open new lines. 

There’s really nothing wrong with that trend. But it highlights how good, climbable rock is a finite resource, and because it can run out, we must put extra thought about how we develop it. 

Think about the long-term repercussions of our actions. Have you tried Googling about accidents and deaths caused by bolt and anchor failure? Or okay, on a less melodramatic note, look at all the re-bolting projects currently happening in old, popular crags. Some of them require double the cost and effort of bolting new lines. 

Or simply read about poorly-established crags, where routes are lined up too near beside each other, or lines crisscross, or the rock face is just studded with holes/corroded bolts/glue marks because of hangers re-bolted or moved around.

This leads us to reflect: What motivates us to establish new routes, new areas? Why do we bolt?

Simon said it well: 

We can’t help but agree.

By Ina

Many questions were already in my head before my first bolting experience in Cebu:

Am I equipped to do it – in terms of both equipment and technical skill? Do I have the right gear? How do I know where to place a bolt? What happens if I drill a hole in the wrong spot? 

So I was only relieved that Kuya Mackie took me under his wing (and not Miel, who would surely have lost his patience with me).  

The experience was both a fulfilling and challenging undertaking, to the say the least, but one that just spurred my curiosity even further:

I wonder how early bolters learned the process? Do other crag developers have the same bolting considerations as Mackie? Do they follow the same protocol and checklists? How do I know which method is the BEST?

And true enough, the Internet presented a mountain of techniques and approaches. From the kind of drill, bolt, hanger, and anchor, down to social, environmental and ethical considerations, there was a lot of prescriptive text to dive into. 

What wasn't there (that I was hoping to find) was an overarching manual carrying the gospel truth about bolting. Blogs and articles came in the form of one person’s opinion, or a whole community’s standpoint on bolting.

Which made me realize, despite how so much has been bolted around the world, crag development is still principally an uncontrolled activity. And if we’re not careful about how we develop our own, it’s not unlikely that we can end up with ugly lines, unsustainable sites, and last but not least, dangerous routes.

In an effort be a more educated (and hopefully, a smarter) crag developer, Climb Philippines touched base with Simon Sandoval to share his experiences. Simon is a talented and well-rounded climber, having done trad, sport and multi-pitch climbs around the world. He has represented the country in Sport Climbing competitions, and for a time headed the Sport Climbing Association of the Philippines, Inc. (SCAPI). 

Probably lesser known, he is also one of the earliest bolters in the country, contributing a lot in Wawa, Montalban, as well as other provinces. We find that his narration is a must-read for those interested in some local sport climbing history – enjoy!

"Motivation" was also a major theme for me this trip. It was something I felt burning inside myself, something I saw in my husband's eyes, and something that just buzzed in the atmosphere. Maybe I was just hallucinating, I don't know. But with so many climbers from all over the country participating in the project, it was impossible not to feel the high. Newbies to climbing bouldered with us in Baguio. Old friends who haven't climbed in a long time traveled from their islands to witness the events unfolding in Cebu. And with James, Caro and 46-year-old Yuji showing us that 8's can be flashed and 9's are not figments of our imagination, everyone was feeling inspired, and we just seemed to continuously feed off each other's positive energy. It’s amazing how simple and genuine generosity can shine a light on our paths.

Then there is the climbing community. I don't know what it is about this sport that makes one feel instant affinity towards a fellow climber, as if you are members of the same bloodline or brotherhood. But climbing has just allowed me to meet so many awesome people, and this trip made sure to remind me about the beauty of friendships forged over the years; friendships that wouldn't have been possible if I didn't go out there and climb. I will not be a hypocrite and say that I am best friends with all climbers of the world, because that is impossible. But I find that the opportunity to meet with all sorts of people – exchanging with people of various dialects, nationalities and lifestyles and getting a glimpse of the world from different perspectives -- it is a gift to be treasured.

Finally, with the development and exposure that the local climbing scene has been getting, I can't help but feel a bit anxious about how it can affect our little community. I say this because the Philippine climbing population in the past 15 years has been quite manageable; big enough for very-controlled progress, but small enough for everyone to still be pretty much familiar with one another, and to somehow be spared of major accidents or safety/legal issues. Now, surely, alongside the sport's development is exponential growth in the climbing population, which somewhat makes me fidgety of how all this will affect our “intimate” climbing family.

But I guess this is the last bit I will need to mention: How I realized that I have no control over how things will exactly pan out. I cannot manage everything, and I cannot please everyone, so there's no point in worrying about these things. 

What matters are those things I mentioned up there: That wherever and whenever we climb, we must be mindful of our crags. Let's make a conscious effort to take good care of them. Let's also respect our fellow climbers and be open-minded about everyone's actions. Let's watch out for each other and try our best to keep Philippine climbing a safe, friendly sport. 

It really is best to keep it simple, and to stay focused on the gift of being able to climb. By keeping to our craft, it'll be hard to go wrong.

Leaving you with some beautiful shots of Mansorella to keep you inspired. :) 

Photo Credits: Majority from Arjun Actub, follow him on Instagram @addictedtorock. 
Also some from Dennis Diaz, Wendell Getubig and Alex Yap