​Kuya Mackie

Known ubiquitously as Kuya Mackie throughout the Philippine climbing community, Carlos Makinano Jr. has his bolting routine down pat. He is, after all, responsible for developing nearly every major rock climbing area in the country since the year 2000.

As soon as we hit the tarmac in Davao International Airport, Kuya Mackie is on his phone coordinating with Davao-based rock climbing advocate and bolting apprentice, Chico Pace, regarding the rental of an FX-type taxi, which would shave hours off our journey to the Municipality of Quezon in Bukidnon.
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By Ina
Read Part 1 here!

There’s more to bolting than drilling holes and installing hangers. Sure, we bolt primarily to let climbers climb crazy cliffs in a safe way, but there are other things to ready apart from the hardware.

Don’t get us wrong. The safety aspect of bolting must never be emphasized enough. In fact, references on bolting will always say: Make sure you have all the right equipment, and make sure you KNOW how to use them. 

It’s important to have the correct type of bolt, because some rock are softer than others (depending on type, age, etc.). Factor in the crag’s location – many have witnessed intense metal corrosion on seaside crags. 

By Ina

I can't remember the last time I went off work for more than a week and did climbing "full-time". But after years of waiting, the stars have finally aligned, and I was able to take an extended climbing trip with my husband again. Though it wasn't to any of our dream destinations, nor was it a long trip like our last major one way back in 2008, it was a good two weeks spent at Baguio and Cebu, digging deeper about all things climbing-related, and being reminded of what truly matters.

Like knowing my climbing roots and not taking for granted the things I am enjoying today. As a gym-bred urban climber, it's so easy to fall into the trap of learning how to scale a wall and hitting the cliffs without even noticing the state of our crags or the little communities surrounding it. But knowing our roots is part and parcel of growing our crags...I know it may sound silly to say that to move forward we must also look back, but that's because, it's only when we understand how much work was put into an area's development -- from the "turf wars", bolting issues, logistical limitations, local community relations, down to the actual effort of route bolting and clean-ups -- will we put the supreme effort to maintain it and make sure the area is not sullied or spoiled, and that the local community won’t be left uneducated or the local ties strained.

2014 was an exciting year for Climb Philippines. To recap:
 
We would like to highlight the Cagayan De Oro climbers who are steadily opening up new sectors at the Catanico River boulders. We are looking forward to visit this area soon and discover new lines. Baguio of course is still a spot that amazes us; we continue to find new problems in the same areas. We believe we can reach that point where you have more than 10 problems just staying in one spot.

Deep Water Soloing (DWS) has greatly grown in popularity across the country. Due credit must go to the TNF team for the exposure, and for showing us that there is much to explore! A group of locals tested the cliffs of Samar for DWS, and it looks promising. We also have pocket areas in the beaches of Cebu and Batangas. Climb Philippines is happy to have helped a number of climbers share the experience. We have had several groups visit El Nido and take the DWS plunge. Keep it coming guys.

Last but surely not the least are developments in sport climbing. Cebu, Iloilo and Atimonan have been getting most of the action. The dedicated team of Mackie Makinano recently bolted routes in Iloilo for 5.8 to 5.11 climbers. A crag called Poog, located in the Cebu province, was also expanded by a generous Italian climber named Ascanio Coimbra – thanks so much! All these provide the perfect push in moving towards our goal of making the Philippines a genuine climbing destination, with crags just a few hours’ travel apart: Ready whether you are hardcore or a weekend warrior, whatever it is that floats your boat, there’ll be an area to satisfy your lust for limestone.

On this note, we must say THANK YOU to all our foreign friends who have shared their time and effort in developing our crags. The SPOT Project is culminating this February in Baguio, Cebu and Manila after almost 10 months. We are all excited to share our experiences and learn from the very talented TNF Athletes: James Pearson, Caroline Ciavaldini and Yuji Hirayama. They will be bouldering, bolting, climbing and hanging out with the locals. With all these happening, the Philippine Climbing community has an opportunity to get together, remember why we love the outdoors, and expand to new horizons. 

But it must not stop there. Whatever we take from this experience, we must use to it to sustain the momentum of the past year in terms of developing our crags and our whole sport. Whatever we learn, we must continue to pass-on and teach to others. It helps a lot that we have the support of great brands locally like ROX Philippines and Sea to Summit who have continuously helped out in promoting our outdoor playgrounds as well as the indoor competitions. 

So yes, things are in the pipeline: Are you ready to go outside and climb?

-Miel

To help pursue Climb Philippines’s dream, we embark on a new journey. Working with Climbers Without Borders and Once Upon A Climb, the SPOT Project will be launched at The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival this October at Kalymnos Island in Greece . 

“SPOT” stands for Share, Progress, Open, Teach. It is a movement to “spot” or assist the growth of sport climbing in developing countries, of which the Philippines was selected to become the first beneficiary.

To help draw support for the Philippine project, Miel Pahati, active mover of the sport in the country, will be sharing Climb Philippines’ dream at the coming climbing festival. He will be joined by James Pearson, Caroline Ciavaldini, and Francisco Taranto, Jr. of FotoVertical, all of whom were part of the recent deep-water soloing exploration at El Nido, and initiators of the SPOT Project.

Hopefully, through the festival kick-off, a bigger part of the international climbing community will become aware of the SPOT Project, and facilitate the bigger Philippine event that's in the pipeline for 2015. Stay tuned for it!

Climb Philippines would like to thank Sea to Summit, TNF Philippines, ROX and Boon for supporting this cause. 

Climbers love to travel! The experience of getting to that dream crag can be as exciting as the climbs themselves. Prior to any trip a climber would do research on the areas he or she is traveling to. It could be as simple as Googling photos to check out the scene. Some are more “strategic” and plan out the best season to go, crag access, and the exact routes to attack. 

Often the best routes are the ones personally recommended by climbers who know the area very well. Versus a guide book rating, climbers can describe a route’s compelling features, which is likewise very relative to a climber’s climbing style and preference. Sometimes, the story behind how a route or crag was established also adds to its quality. So for those who are looking into rock climbing around the Philippines, here’s a primer on what we have so far.

There are close to 300 sport routes across the whole country, divided amongst four main climbing locations or provinces (Rizal, Quezon, Iloilo, and Cebu). This may be a small number compared to other countries that offer over 300 routes in a single area, but this only means there is a huge potential for growth across the country’s many islands. 

Wawa, Rizal was the center of development for outdoor climbing in the late 90’s, and is the area with the highest concentration of routes. As this was the beginnings of rock climbing in the country, majority of the routes are graded 5.10 and below, with a couple of 5.12 routes established in the late 90’s to early 2000. This makes Wawa an ideal area for first-timers or beginners to the sport. 

Atimonan, Quezon – with its approximately 20 routes – has also been developed to the same level, but with more 5.10’s than the lower grades. 

If you are targeting to become a 5.12 climber, these two areas would provide you with the best tick list to ensure you have enough endurance, technique and experience from climbing more than a hundred routes in the 5.10 and 5.11 range -- a solid foundation before you start looking at 5.12 routes. 

In 2003 a drive to develop new areas in the Visayas region started, starting with Dingle in Iloilo and Cantabaco in Cebu. With a new generation of climbers craving for more challenges, the new areas had longer, steeper and generally more demanding routes than the previous two areas. 

Naturally there were more 5.12 routes, and possibly even harder. So if you already have a good base of 5.12’s under your belt, Iloilo and Cebu will offer you the next set of routes to get you to the 5.13 level.  

Below is the current spread of the sport routes by grade and by number of routes. It’s simply a visual representation of what we talked about above.




















So what if you've already managed to tick all of these routes? We suggest you make it your next project to develop the hardest lines in the country. Finally, you can make your momma proud that you're keeping your grades up!

We're psyched to share this website for a glimpse of climbing developments in Cagayan de Oro City. Thanks to local climber Jared Betita, we now know that climbing is alive and kicking once again in CDO. And the next question is...When's the next rock trip? :)

It’s been a pretty busy first quarter for Philippines outdoor climbing. January to March provides some of the “best” conditions for outdoor climbing in the country. To put it in perspective, if you’re from Europe, our “best” might already be a hot day of climbing for you. But for Pinoys, it was just the right schedule to start the year. 

In January, we resumed the regular trips to Baguio for some bouldering action. “Friction” is a word that has been thrown around if you want to do some really hard boulder problems, especially slopey holds. But what is good friction? I suggest you try the boulders in Montalban and Manalmon to get a comparison of just how good (or bad) friction can be. 

Even within the different areas in Baguio, the friction can easily vary depending on the type of rock. For example, if you drive 20 minutes down the bouldering area in Capitol there is another area where the rock is softer and breaks much easily than the boulders at the top of the rivers. With the variety of rock and friction there has been a number of new problems established or extensions that have been completed. It’s also amazing how having a new climber to the group and something you once perceived to be difficult gets unlocked. Something new I learned was, before trying problems make sure you properly clean it before you climb it. Plus, it’s always good to share your projects or established areas to new eyes. Who knows the next best boulder was just around the corner or just underneath it. Creativity and keeping an open mind is your best friend.

Speaking of new projects, the Cebu Boys have also developed a new area in Cebu, the Mansorela Project! It’s a huge wall with at least 3 pitches that are overhanging. We’d like to thank Geordi Yip and Xtian Gurerror for their support in this initiative! If you would like to bolt, donate or support please check out the Cebu Rock Climbing Community (CRCC) Facebook group for details. 

Then there was the deep water soloing trip to Palawan between February and March. Disclaimer: Deep water soloing will not make you a strong climber. It will take away all the rough skin on your fingers but it’s something I will suggest everyone to experience at least once. You may not climb very hard or go very high but the awareness/perspective that the experience gives you as a climber improves movement and decision making. It’s as close to soloing you can get without risking your life. Plus, the experience of letting go and landing is just scary, exciting and relaxing all at once. 

A friendly reminder before going into DWS is you read up on safety practices or better yet have an experienced climber along to guide you. Suggest bringing the following: 1. Loose chalk 2. Quick dry chalk bag 3. First aid kit with waterproof bandages 4. Dry bags. There are more than 5 areas for DWS in El nido and there is so much more potential. You can have short bouldery routes, long jug haul routes or event stalactite routes.  Best thing about DWS is the experience of unlocking a route since you always have to climb ground up and no ropes or chalk to indicate the holds. One professional climber said about El Nido DWS, “It can’t get any better than that.” If you want the real deal check out El Nido.

March has been the start of the warm weather. After the cold weather of Baguio and the numerous beaches in Palawan, it was time for me to journey back into lead climbing after a 2-year hiatus. We decided to go to Atimonan to scout new areas and check if details on this website are still accurate. Unfortunately like any trip, our supposedly 4-hour drive turned to a 7-hour drive due to numerous road works. Suggest you leave early in the morning to maximize a shorter travel time. It was only my second time in Atimonan and still the area provides a variety of styles of climbing for those wanting to try outdoor climbing. 

To end the quarter we returned to Montalban for some bouldering and sport climbing. It was also a time to say goodbye to Aling Norma, the beloved mother of our “second home” which is the crags of Montalban. Aling Norma has taken care of more than three generations of Montalban climbers, as well as bikers, cavers and mountaineers! We thank her for all her contributions and will surely miss her cooking. Especially the fried chicken, for me. Thank you Aling Norms!

What’s in store for the rest of the year? Get psyched for the upcoming rock trips, bolting development and climbing competitions.

-Miel

For two rainy days last January, a group of boys set out to develop a brand new crag in the province of Cebu. We've been itching in our seats waiting for the full video and details to come out, but so far, we've learned that 3 lines were established on this big, high-potential limestone cliff.

The project was led by Cebu's very own Wendell Getubig, along with Manila climber Xtian Guerrero and Arcteryx-sponsored outdoor developer Geordie Yip. Also to thank are Hong Kong climber Calvin Lieu and the entire Cebu Rock Climbing Community. You rock, guys!

With three routes bolted, the crag is screaming for more development, and the local community is open to assisting anyone who wants to set up new lines. In the meantime, here are a few photos from the initiative.

Four new routes were setup at the country's newest crag last August. Igbaras, located in the province of Iloilo, recently underwent another series of bolting and anchor placements, sponsored by 8a Performance Multisports Apparel (thank you, Maman Salada!) Aside from two brand new lines, 2 other routes were rebolted, and installed were 8 sets of rappel rings and 4 belay anchors.

This project was again led by the team of Mackie Makinano and the Iloilo climbers, supported by the Sport Climbing Association of the Philippines (SCAPI).