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Keep Calm And Climb On: Five Things to Expect When Getting Into the Sport of Climbing

8/29/2018

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By Ina
​Are you looking for a new pastime? An escape from the daily grind? Perhaps a break from your usual fitness activity?

Or maybe you’re just bored and want to try something you’ve never done before?
 
Whatever it is that led you to these pages, we're glad you found your way here. This post hopes to broadcast the less-highlighted but equally-important truths about the sport of climbing. (And yes, climbing is a legitimate sport, World Cups and our own Philippine Team and all!)
 
Just to be clear, this is not a guide to fulfilling your elite climber ambition, though tips will surely be scattered here and there. This is more about sharing the less-hyped parts of being a climber, to give you a well-rounded perspective of why more and more people are drawn to it, and why it’s far more than an activity to tick off your bucket list. 
 
Whether you've only tried "wall-climbing" in a school fair or some expo, or even if you’ve already visited a climbing gym a couple of times, our goal is to cast out any doubts you have about dipping your finger into the sport. Because the last thing we want are for newbie climbers to have crushed expectations after seeing the reality. 

Are you ready? Let’s dive in!

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Monkey Wall

3/9/2018

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​We're happy to share with everyone the latest crag the Climb Philippines team has been working on. Monkey Wall, like the rest of the walls we're currently enjoying in Wawa, was first developed in the early to mid-90's. Its sustained section features beautiful gray and white streaks, which was what caught our eye during a hike to the peak. Upon closer inspection, we found that it had already been established. Ahhh....so THIS is the Monkey Wall!

​For that (and so much more), we would like to give credit to the 'Talban bible and its creators, the first guidebook Rockclimbing in Montalban (published 2000), a collaborative effort of Roel Tan-Torres, Simon Sandoval, Ruben Flores, Iva Ybanez, Jong Narciso, and Carlos "Kuya Mackie" Makinano. 

​We've devoted a few weekends to scout the routes, add some anchors, and replace some iffy bolts. Still a work in a progress, with more space for further development. But in the meantime, willing climbers are welcome to try the lines out. Just always remember to CLIMB SAFE, and do be mindful of the reminders outlined below.
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​We welcome any sort of feedback to the mini-guide that we made. Please give us a shout out at [email protected] for that, or leave a comment below. Climb on!

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Discovering Vertical Horizons in Quezon, Bukidnon

6/3/2017

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Words and photos by Dru Robles
The blog has been quiet for over a year, but it’s impossible to contain our excitement over the newest crag in the south of the Philippines. In this first of what we hope to be a series of stories about Bukidnon, Dru gives us an intro to the development work behind these promising limestone cliffs.

​Kuya Mackie

Known ubiquitously as Kuya Mackie throughout the Philippine climbing community, Carlos Makinano Jr. has his bolting routine down pat. He is, after all, responsible for developing nearly every major rock climbing area in the country since the year 2000.

As soon as we hit the tarmac in Davao International Airport, Kuya Mackie is on his phone coordinating with Davao-based rock climbing advocate and bolting apprentice, Chico Pace, regarding the rental of an FX-type taxi, which would shave hours off our journey to the Municipality of Quezon in Bukidnon.
​

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Reverse Engineering

4/9/2016

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By Miel

We all go through different phases of development in the different areas of life, from work, to recreation and sports. Many times, the learning curve is too steep that we just give up and move on, and try to find something that is more appealing or more in vogue.

​But no matter what we choose, we still end up going through the beginner, advanced and mastery phases. There is so much joy and pain that go hand in hand in that whole journey towards personal growth. 

For a number of years I was centered on looking to improve just myself, always looking for the hardest lines, and the areas with the most concentration of routes to ensure maximum use of my time and effort. Through this whole process I ended up in isolation and was in a mental paradox of finding the path to get past that plateau. 

I learned that this is the same for a lot of climbers. ​

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The Gift of Climbing

2/22/2015

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By Ina

I can't remember the last time I went off work for more than a week and did climbing "full-time". But after years of waiting, the stars have finally aligned, and I was able to take an extended climbing trip with my husband again. Though it wasn't to any of our dream destinations, nor was it a long trip like our last major one way back in 2008, it was a good two weeks spent at Baguio and Cebu, digging deeper about all things climbing-related, and being reminded of what truly matters.

Like knowing my climbing roots and not taking for granted the things I am enjoying today. As a gym-bred urban climber, it's so easy to fall into the trap of learning how to scale a wall and hitting the cliffs without even noticing the state of our crags or the little communities surrounding it. But knowing our roots is part and parcel of growing our crags...I know it may sound silly to say that to move forward we must also look back, but that's because, it's only when we understand how much work was put into an area's development -- from the "turf wars", bolting issues, logistical limitations, local community relations, down to the actual effort of route bolting and clean-ups -- will we put the supreme effort to maintain it and make sure the area is not sullied or spoiled, and that the local community won’t be left uneducated or the local ties strained.

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Climbing Outside

1/13/2015

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2014 was an exciting year for Climb Philippines. To recap:
 
We would like to highlight the Cagayan De Oro climbers who are steadily opening up new sectors at the Catanico River boulders. We are looking forward to visit this area soon and discover new lines. Baguio of course is still a spot that amazes us; we continue to find new problems in the same areas. We believe we can reach that point where you have more than 10 problems just staying in one spot.
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Boulders of Lamtang, Baguio
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Bouldering at Marabut, Samar

Deep Water Soloing (DWS) has greatly grown in popularity across the country. Due credit must go to the TNF team for the exposure, and for showing us that there is much to explore! A group of locals tested the cliffs of Samar for DWS, and it looks promising. We also have pocket areas in the beaches of Cebu and Batangas. Climb Philippines is happy to have helped a number of climbers share the experience. We have had several groups visit El Nido and take the DWS plunge. Keep it coming guys.
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Deep-water soloing at Marabut, Samar
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Deep-water soloing in Coron, Palawan Photo by Francisco Taranto, Jr. http://www.fotovertical.com/

Last but surely not the least are developments in sport climbing. Cebu, Iloilo and Atimonan have been getting most of the action. The dedicated team of Mackie Makinano recently bolted routes in Iloilo for 5.8 to 5.11 climbers. A crag called Poog, located in the Cebu province, was also expanded by a generous Italian climber named Ascanio Coimbra – thanks so much! All these provide the perfect push in moving towards our goal of making the Philippines a genuine climbing destination, with crags just a few hours’ travel apart: Ready whether you are hardcore or a weekend warrior, whatever it is that floats your boat, there’ll be an area to satisfy your lust for limestone.
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Climbing at the newly-bolted Poog, Cebu Photo by Ben Lee's Photography http://www.benleesphotgraphy.co.nz/

On this note, we must say THANK YOU to all our foreign friends who have shared their time and effort in developing our crags. The SPOT Project is culminating this February in Baguio, Cebu and Manila after almost 10 months. We are all excited to share our experiences and learn from the very talented TNF Athletes: James Pearson, Caroline Ciavaldini and Yuji Hirayama. They will be bouldering, bolting, climbing and hanging out with the locals. With all these happening, the Philippine Climbing community has an opportunity to get together, remember why we love the outdoors, and expand to new horizons. 

But it must not stop there. Whatever we take from this experience, we must use to it to sustain the momentum of the past year in terms of developing our crags and our whole sport. Whatever we learn, we must continue to pass-on and teach to others. It helps a lot that we have the support of great brands locally like ROX Philippines and Sea to Summit who have continuously helped out in promoting our outdoor playgrounds as well as the indoor competitions. 

So yes, things are in the pipeline: Are you ready to go outside and climb?

-Miel
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Make Your Momma Proud

6/29/2014

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Climbers love to travel! The experience of getting to that dream crag can be as exciting as the climbs themselves. Prior to any trip a climber would do research on the areas he or she is traveling to. It could be as simple as Googling photos to check out the scene. Some are more “strategic” and plan out the best season to go, crag access, and the exact routes to attack. 

Often the best routes are the ones personally recommended by climbers who know the area very well. Versus a guide book rating, climbers can describe a route’s compelling features, which is likewise very relative to a climber’s climbing style and preference. Sometimes, the story behind how a route or crag was established also adds to its quality. So for those who are looking into rock climbing around the Philippines, here’s a primer on what we have so far.

There are close to 300 sport routes across the whole country, divided amongst four main climbing locations or provinces (Rizal, Quezon, Iloilo, and Cebu). This may be a small number compared to other countries that offer over 300 routes in a single area, but this only means there is a huge potential for growth across the country’s many islands. 

Wawa, Rizal was the center of development for outdoor climbing in the late 90’s, and is the area with the highest concentration of routes. As this was the beginnings of rock climbing in the country, majority of the routes are graded 5.10 and below, with a couple of 5.12 routes established in the late 90’s to early 2000. This makes Wawa an ideal area for first-timers or beginners to the sport. 

Atimonan, Quezon – with its approximately 20 routes – has also been developed to the same level, but with more 5.10’s than the lower grades. 

If you are targeting to become a 5.12 climber, these two areas would provide you with the best tick list to ensure you have enough endurance, technique and experience from climbing more than a hundred routes in the 5.10 and 5.11 range -- a solid foundation before you start looking at 5.12 routes. 

In 2003 a drive to develop new areas in the Visayas region started, starting with Dingle in Iloilo and Cantabaco in Cebu. With a new generation of climbers craving for more challenges, the new areas had longer, steeper and generally more demanding routes than the previous two areas. 

Naturally there were more 5.12 routes, and possibly even harder. So if you already have a good base of 5.12’s under your belt, Iloilo and Cebu will offer you the next set of routes to get you to the 5.13 level.  

Below is the current spread of the sport routes by grade and by number of routes. It’s simply a visual representation of what we talked about above.




















So what if you've already managed to tick all of these routes? We suggest you make it your next project to develop the hardest lines in the country. Finally, you can make your momma proud that you're keeping your grades up!

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Climbing on This Side of the World

4/6/2014

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It’s been a pretty busy first quarter for Philippines outdoor climbing. January to March provides some of the “best” conditions for outdoor climbing in the country. To put it in perspective, if you’re from Europe, our “best” might already be a hot day of climbing for you. But for Pinoys, it was just the right schedule to start the year. 

In January, we resumed the regular trips to Baguio for some bouldering action. “Friction” is a word that has been thrown around if you want to do some really hard boulder problems, especially slopey holds. But what is good friction? I suggest you try the boulders in Montalban and Manalmon to get a comparison of just how good (or bad) friction can be. 

Even within the different areas in Baguio, the friction can easily vary depending on the type of rock. For example, if you drive 20 minutes down the bouldering area in Capitol there is another area where the rock is softer and breaks much easily than the boulders at the top of the rivers. With the variety of rock and friction there has been a number of new problems established or extensions that have been completed. It’s also amazing how having a new climber to the group and something you once perceived to be difficult gets unlocked. Something new I learned was, before trying problems make sure you properly clean it before you climb it. Plus, it’s always good to share your projects or established areas to new eyes. Who knows the next best boulder was just around the corner or just underneath it. Creativity and keeping an open mind is your best friend.

Speaking of new projects, the Cebu Boys have also developed a new area in Cebu, the Mansorela Project! It’s a huge wall with at least 3 pitches that are overhanging. We’d like to thank Geordi Yip and Xtian Gurerror for their support in this initiative! If you would like to bolt, donate or support please check out the Cebu Rock Climbing Community (CRCC) Facebook group for details. 

Then there was the deep water soloing trip to Palawan between February and March. Disclaimer: Deep water soloing will not make you a strong climber. It will take away all the rough skin on your fingers but it’s something I will suggest everyone to experience at least once. You may not climb very hard or go very high but the awareness/perspective that the experience gives you as a climber improves movement and decision making. It’s as close to soloing you can get without risking your life. Plus, the experience of letting go and landing is just scary, exciting and relaxing all at once. 

A friendly reminder before going into DWS is you read up on safety practices or better yet have an experienced climber along to guide you. Suggest bringing the following: 1. Loose chalk 2. Quick dry chalk bag 3. First aid kit with waterproof bandages 4. Dry bags. There are more than 5 areas for DWS in El nido and there is so much more potential. You can have short bouldery routes, long jug haul routes or event stalactite routes.  Best thing about DWS is the experience of unlocking a route since you always have to climb ground up and no ropes or chalk to indicate the holds. One professional climber said about El Nido DWS, “It can’t get any better than that.” If you want the real deal check out El Nido.

March has been the start of the warm weather. After the cold weather of Baguio and the numerous beaches in Palawan, it was time for me to journey back into lead climbing after a 2-year hiatus. We decided to go to Atimonan to scout new areas and check if details on this website are still accurate. Unfortunately like any trip, our supposedly 4-hour drive turned to a 7-hour drive due to numerous road works. Suggest you leave early in the morning to maximize a shorter travel time. It was only my second time in Atimonan and still the area provides a variety of styles of climbing for those wanting to try outdoor climbing. 

To end the quarter we returned to Montalban for some bouldering and sport climbing. It was also a time to say goodbye to Aling Norma, the beloved mother of our “second home” which is the crags of Montalban. Aling Norma has taken care of more than three generations of Montalban climbers, as well as bikers, cavers and mountaineers! We thank her for all her contributions and will surely miss her cooking. Especially the fried chicken, for me. Thank you Aling Norms!

What’s in store for the rest of the year? Get psyched for the upcoming rock trips, bolting development and climbing competitions.

-Miel
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PHOTOS: MANSORELLA CRAG

1/19/2014

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For two rainy days last January, a group of boys set out to develop a brand new crag in the province of Cebu. We've been itching in our seats waiting for the full video and details to come out, but so far, we've learned that 3 lines were established on this big, high-potential limestone cliff.

The project was led by Cebu's very own Wendell Getubig, along with Manila climber Xtian Guerrero and Arcteryx-sponsored outdoor developer Geordie Yip. Also to thank are Hong Kong climber Calvin Lieu and the entire Cebu Rock Climbing Community. You rock, guys!

With three routes bolted, the crag is screaming for more development, and the local community is open to assisting anyone who wants to set up new lines. In the meantime, here are a few photos from the initiative.
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Project Igbaras

9/11/2013

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Four new routes were setup at the country's newest crag last August. Igbaras, located in the province of Iloilo, recently underwent another series of bolting and anchor placements, sponsored by 8a Performance Multisports Apparel (thank you, Maman Salada!) Aside from two brand new lines, 2 other routes were rebolted, and installed were 8 sets of rappel rings and 4 belay anchors.

This project was again led by the team of Mackie Makinano and the Iloilo climbers, supported by the Sport Climbing Association of the Philippines (SCAPI).


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