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Trad Climbing, Anyone?

8/12/2010

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It’s thrilling to find such a quick outcome of putting this website together. In a matter of days, Climb Philippines received word about an existing trad climbing area in Masungi, Rizal.

According to our source, Masungi is blessed with huge and beautiful (and sharp!) limestone towers, and so far, they have already established around 15 routes, graded from 5.5 to 5.12, and ranging between 10 to 60 meters high.

While the crag is open to all climbers, it must be noted that it is located in privately-owned land, so best practice is to still ask permission before heading to Masungi.

As for your burning questions…

Q: Is this purely trad climbing?
A: Yes. Be ready with your full rack.
Q: How do I get to Masungi?
A: Take a jeep from Marikina along Marcos Highway. Go past Palo Alto Village. Soon after there is the so-called “Cottage Garden Resort”. These are people that don’t allow you on their land, so do not illegally enter.

Go past Cottage Garden. You will see the high voltage power transmission cable and their towers. Once you pass the first tower, look for a dirt road starting on your right side. It has a sign of ‘No Trespassing’, but this is the entrance to Masungi. Get off the jeep here, walk up, and ask permission at the cottage if you can go on their land to climb.

Q: If I’m allowed access to the area, where to next?
A: The trails in the beginning are obvious and you can’t get lost on them. First climbing area appears after 15 minutes of hiking. If you want to go further, go up the steep slope and you end up a ridge. Turn left, follow the ridge and in the distance you will see the larger rock towers (Man With A Hat, Razorblade routes). Go down into the next valley and up to the rocks.

After a while you can go left to the Man With A Hat and Razorblade, or turn right and follow the main trail into another valley, where there are lots and lots of smaller rock towers. There is much more to climb, but this requires going much deeper into the valleys, where no trails exist yet. Anyhow, the rocks you will find on the main trail will keep climbers busy for a long time if they have the proper gear.

Q: Phew. Isn’t there a simpler way to try climbing in Masungi??
A: Maybe. Route information is being developed by Jeanot Boulet and his climbing buddies. You can look him up in Facebook, in case you need more information about the area.

Check out some photos below. Thank you, Jeanot, for sharing this with us. Happy trad climbing, everyone!
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